Thrale's Russian Stout
Barclay Perkins Russian Stout label
Some of Britain's magnificent strong dark ales have disappeared as they were gradually replaced by more fashionable lighter beers. One of the most 'tragic losses' have been two of the world's classic beers, Courage Russian Imperial Stout and Eldridge Pope Thomas Hardy's Ale. Imperial Stout recalls the hey-day of porter and stout brewing in London in the 18th and 19th centuries. The powerful imperial version of stout was brewed for the Baltic trade and was popular at the court of the Russian Tsars. The beer that became Courage Russian Imperial started life in the Anchor brewery run by the Thrale family.
Barclay's Imperial Russian Stout had a long journey from London to Danzig and then into Imperial Russia, a journey made even more hazardous when the Baltic ports were blockaded by the French during the Napoleonic Wars. When the Russian trade dried up, Barclays susbequently bought by a Scot of French Huguenot descent named John Courage — continued to brew small batches of Russian stout for the home market.
When Courage closed its historic Horsleydown brewery in London, production of the stout was moved to John Smith's brewery in Tadcaster. It was 10 per cent alcohol, brewed from pale, amber and black malts, with a touch of Pilsner malt, and around 24 pounds of Target hops per barrel — that is four times as many hops as are used in a conventional beer. The stout had an aroma of fresh leather and liquorice, with bitter black chocolate in the mouth, and a long finish packed with bitter dark fruit and hops. As with all strong bottle-conditioned beers, Imperial Russian Stout improves with age. In 1969 vintage it was still labelled Barclays.
Barclay Perkins Russian Stout bottles. Courtesy of Colston Chappell.
Sadly, the beer did not long survive after Courage was taken over by Scottish Courage. The annual brew became an occasional one and then petered out completely in the late 1990s.
